Your right Paul and it gets better,
I passed by yesterday the 3rd wave is a huge roller now 2x the length looking very much like it used to be. If it follows the same pattern it should also get 50% bigger than your used to this spring.
We could and eek! this is showing my age too much, surf in Pirouettes 10 wide and 5 wide on the first wave. Even was doing a cross over with Mark Scriver in his canoe and me in a WhipIt backsurfing on the first wave.
Ahthe good ole days